{"id":483,"date":"2009-10-19T23:07:05","date_gmt":"2009-10-20T04:07:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/scope-eye.net\/?p=483"},"modified":"2009-10-19T23:07:05","modified_gmt":"2009-10-20T04:07:05","slug":"hakuheisen-complete-but-not-and-shown-at-granitecon","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/scope-eye.net\/?p=483","title":{"rendered":"Hakuheisen &#8220;Complete&#8221; (but not) and shown at Granitecon&#8230;"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>I&#8217;ve been pushing to have the Hakuheisen ready in time for Granitecon &#8211; due to various circumstances that didn&#8217;t quite work out.  First I had to give up on the idea of having a display base ready to go with the kit, then I had to put off completion of the leg wiring, then I had to delay the weathering phase of the project &#8211; then I had to finish up the basic paint chipping and wash as an all-nighter just prior to the show.  But in the end I had a pretty good model to bring with me to the model show &#8211; I am always happier at these things when I&#8217;ve managed to get a project ready to bring&#8230;<\/p>\n<p><!--more--><br \/>\nOne of the more substantial problems I encountered during the rush to finish the project was that my compressor kicked the bucket.  I took it apart and saw nothing obvious I could fix&#8230;  as far as I could tell the tank wasn&#8217;t leaking, just the compressor would run and the tank would never build up any pressure.  If I ran the thing constantly I could get maybe 5-10 PSI out of it&#8230;  I didn&#8217;t much like the prospect of rushing off to Sears for a last-minute replacement just for one model project&#8230;  But, as it turns out, I had a back-up plan ready to go: I had an aircan.  I have no idea when I bought this can of &#8220;Badger Propel&#8221; &#8211; my best guess would be that it was before I bought my compressor, eight years ago.  I don&#8217;t know why I would have bought it afterward&#8230;  Unless maybe it was one of those times I was worried my compressor was introducing something nasty into the mix and I wanted to try an aircan to see if it made a difference in how well my paint would adhere to the models&#8230;  But at any rate, this can&#8217;s been sitting around in my space for years, along with the adaptor\/valve mechanism to use it &#8211; so lucky me, I was able to use it to spray my AC parts for Granitecon.  It&#8217;s actually better than I remember, using canned air: no need to wait for the compressor to charge up, no noise &#8211; just open the valve and start spraying.  Also, I think when I last used canned air I was a lot more wasteful of it &#8211; I would spray at full blast and freeze up the can pretty quickly.  This time around the can did get cold but not nearly so quickly&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>An unfortunate complication was that when I decided not to do the display base or the full leg wiring for Granitecon, I also lost my viable plan to power the eye LEDs using cheap, long-lasting AA batteries.  So two days from the con I needed to come up with a power source and a way to hook it up.  I have space in the model&#8217;s belly which I opened up a bit so I could fit a control circuit inside &#8211; said control circuit isn&#8217;t ready yet, but the space is there&#8230;  So I measured it and looked for batteries I could fit in there.  Since the two red LEDs in the head are connected in series, though, I needed <strong>more<\/strong> than 3V&#8230;  I wound up using three watch batteries, 1.5V each, taped together in series with the head wires attached with electrical tape.  I didn&#8217;t use a resistor, figuring the current limit of the batteries would be sufficient to keep the LEDs from burning out&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>Now, what really sucks about using watch or calculator batteries to light models is that you pay a bunch of money for these batteries (this was at retail, mind you) and their lifetime stinks.  Each battery was $4, so I paid $12 to light the model.  (Hearing aid batteries would have been cheaper &#8211; eight for $10 &#8211; but I didn&#8217;t know their voltage rating so I didn&#8217;t want to gamble without that info on hand&#8230;)  I think I connected the batteries to the LEDs at about 6AM on Sunday.  They seemed reasonably bright when first connected: I don&#8217;t know if they got significantly dimmer as the day went on or if they just seemed dimmer in the more brightly-lit convention hall, but by noon time or so one couldn&#8217;t readily tell the forehead camera was lit at all (that LED is shining through &#8220;opaque&#8221; silver plastic and a layer of clear paint, mind you&#8230;) and the light of the main camera could be seen well only at a few angles (though this is as much because of the arrangement of the LED as anything&#8230;  frosting the back side of the lens probably would have helped there&#8230;)  Compare this to what you&#8217;d pay for a set of AA&#8217;s &#8211; or even one of those huge value-packs of AA&#8217;s&#8230;  Four AA&#8217;s would power a couple LEDs for <em>months<\/em>, even with a series resistor wasting roughly half the power as heat &#8211; and cost half as much&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>Anyway, I didn&#8217;t win anything this time out, but for very good reasons.  (I&#8217;ll post photos from the show later on&#8230;)<br \/>\n<a href=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_at_show_1.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_at_show_1_thumb.jpeg\" title=\"What's wrong with this picture?\" \/><\/a><a href=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_at_show_2.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_at_show_2_thumb.jpeg\" \/><\/a><a href=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_at_show_3.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_at_show_3_thumb.jpeg\" title=\"See anything wrong here?\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nSo what went wrong?<br \/>\n<a href=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_at_show_critique.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_at_show_critique_thumb.jpeg\" title=\"This is what happens when you (or rather, I) rush a model project.\" \/><\/a><a href=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_at_show_leg_gap.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_at_show_leg_gap_thumb.jpeg\" title=\"Wiring plan required the front part of the leg to be removable for service...  This leg wouldn't stay together, thus gap.\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Did I mention that I couldn&#8217;t get the hairspray technique to work on any of the parts other than the white parts and the cannon?  I got other parts wet but the hairspray layer never soaked it up and released the paint&#8230;  I don&#8217;t know if the outer paint layer was too thick, if the hairspray had been sitting too long, if I didn&#8217;t use enough of it, or what&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>I have mentioned before that the front plates on the Kotobukiya CR-LH80 legs (the legs that come with this kit, Nine Ball, and the &#8220;Last Raven&#8221; AC) have a nasty tendency to break&#8230;  One of the two front plates for the legs I&#8217;m using on this project broke sometime earlier in the project (during the painting phase, I think) and I patched it up&#8230;  Now the other one&#8217;s cracked as well.  It should be noted that the only reason these parts are breaking is &#8217;cause I sometimes take them off and put them back on &#8211; for wiring tests and so on&#8230;  After dealing with all of this I&#8217;ve come to the conclusion that my initial wiring plan for the lower leg was a <em>dumb idea<\/em>.  Servicing the wiring depends on being able to remove this delicate part &#8211; and if you can&#8217;t fit the part back on afterward (and get it to stay put) the result is a <em>very obvious gap<\/em> &#8211; like what everybody got to see at Granitecon&#8230;  The only reason I did it like that was because I wanted to be able to pass a <em>connector<\/em> through to the lower leg, which would have been nice as it&#8217;d give me a secure, reliable connection&#8230;  But since this has turned out to be such a pain, I&#8217;ve switched to a different plan: using a hole I drilled earlier in the course of the project, the wires will now go straight down from the knee joint into the lower leg.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_old_leg_wiring_path_1.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_old_leg_wiring_path_1_thumb.jpeg\" title=\"This was the original plan for how I would route the wires from the upper leg.\" \/><\/a><a href=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_new_leg_wiring_path_1.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_new_leg_wiring_path_1_thumb.jpeg\" title=\"This is the new plan for how I will route the wires from the upper leg.\" \/><\/a><a href=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_new_leg_wiring_path_2.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_new_leg_wiring_path_2_thumb.jpeg\" title=\"It's a straight shot, much easier - but I can't fit anything other than just the wires through.\" \/><\/a><a href=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_new_leg_wiring_path_3.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_new_leg_wiring_path_3_thumb.jpeg\" title=\"It's quite easy to thread a bundle of wires through...\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Because I don&#8217;t want the gap to appear again, and I don&#8217;t want the leg parts to get damaged any further, I&#8217;ve now super-glued them to the blue part of the lower leg&#8230;  Unfortunately, this introduced a new, more pronounced crack in the leg that had previously been repaired&#8230;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_cracked_leg_1.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_cracked_leg_1_thumb.jpeg\" title=\"After the show the repaired leg broke again, so I've started fixing it again...\" \/><\/a><a href=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_cracked_leg_2.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_cracked_leg_2_thumb.jpeg\" title=\"This is the other leg, after post-show fiddling around with it.  You can see a very minor crack..\" \/><\/a><a href=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_cracked_leg_3.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_cracked_leg_3_thumb.jpeg\" title=\"While gluing the previously-repaired part down, it broke.  Again.\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>This was not totally unexpected&#8230;  When repairing this part, really the only way to make it really conform correctly to the blue part of the lower leg is to repair it <em>on<\/em> the blue part of the lower leg&#8230;  If you go fiddling with it elsewhere, repairs can cause the angle to change slightly.  Thus, pressing it down now caused it to bend backward, re-opening the old crack.  I&#8217;ve filled this with super glue and sanded it down &#8211; as a result I&#8217;ve basically lost the paint on this part and have to paint it again&#8230;  Not that bad, really, it&#8217;s pretty easy to do spot-paint jobs like this&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>So if, by some measure, the project was &#8220;finished&#8221; before, it surely isn&#8217;t now.  That&#8217;s fine.  There&#8217;s some things here that would clearly benefit from further work &#8211; and having to spot-paint the right leg won&#8217;t kill me.  Here&#8217;s the current state&#8230;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_overview_1.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_overview_1_thumb.jpeg\" title=\"Got that shiny new bald spot on the right leg now, I'm afraid...  It'll paint up easily enough, though.\" \/><\/a><a href=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_overview_2.jpeg\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"model-data\/1_72_AC_Hakuheisen\/20091019_Hakuheisen_overview_2_thumb.jpeg\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I&#8217;ve been pushing to have the Hakuheisen ready in time for Granitecon &#8211; due to various circumstances that didn&#8217;t quite work out. First I had to give up on the idea of having a display base ready to go with the kit, then I had to put off completion of the leg wiring, then I [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[30],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/scope-eye.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/483"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/scope-eye.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/scope-eye.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/scope-eye.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/scope-eye.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=483"}],"version-history":[{"count":9,"href":"https:\/\/scope-eye.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/483\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":492,"href":"https:\/\/scope-eye.net\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/483\/revisions\/492"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/scope-eye.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=483"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/scope-eye.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=483"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/scope-eye.net\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=483"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}